
Below is a link to my puppy supplies page. On this page you will find a list of recommended items along with links to my favorite puppy essentials.

let's talk about food since this is a necessity and can have a huge impact on your puppy.
As you all know I highly recommend feeding raw. If you are just starting out then I recommend using pre-made diets with some supplements.
Pre-made is more expensive than if you were to put the diet together yourself but is worth the money if you d
let's talk about food since this is a necessity and can have a huge impact on your puppy.
As you all know I highly recommend feeding raw. If you are just starting out then I recommend using pre-made diets with some supplements.
Pre-made is more expensive than if you were to put the diet together yourself but is worth the money if you don't feel confident putting the diet together yourself.
I recommend not attempting DIY until you are confident you can get the diet balanced or you follow a recipe from a nutritionist such as Ronnie from perfectly rawsome or out of the book forever dog Life by Dr. Karen Becker and Rodney Habib.
I also have a puppy recipe I'm happy to share if you are thinking of putting the diet together yourself.
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I recommend adding green lipid muscles. Lots of doggy joint supplements have these as one of the ingredients. These are wonderful joint supplements and will help your puppy develop properly. For those of you getting boys I found that the boys tend to grow bone more quickly and can show signs of lameness if they do not have green lipid muscles in their diet. (I have links to this on my puppy supplies page)
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I also recommend adding a taurine supplement. ( Links to taurine supplements on my puppy supplies page) Taurine is vital for heart health! Although it is found in raw meat, when exposed to air it dissipates from the meat so supplementing ensures your golden is getting enough.
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Another thing I recommend is probiotics. Again on my puppy supplies page I have a link to my favorite probiotics.
I only feed probiotics as needed. For example, introducing a new food, any type of wormer, medication or new supplement and anytime they are traveling. If your puppy gets diarrhea, add probiotics to help get their gut back in line. I always have probiotics on hand. I will be sending some home with you to help your puppy adjust but I also recommend purchasing some to keep on hand yourself. It is a good idea to add probiotics to your puppy's food for the first month or so as they are transitioning to a new home.
Below is a link to the diet page on my website. I've got a lot more info including more reasons why you should feed raw. As always, please let me know if you guys have any questions!
Also, don't let feeding raw overwhelm you. If you're not up for feeding 100% raw, there are ways to add it so that puppy can still get some of the benefits of raw. Again, Please let me know if you have questions.
I also recommend adding a taurine supplement. ( Links to taurine supplements on my puppy supplies page) Taurine is vital for heart health! Although it is found in raw meat, when exposed to air it dissipates from the meat so supplementing ensures your golden is getting enough.
🐕🐕🐕🐕🐕🐕🐕🐕🐕
Another thing I recommend is probiotics. Again on my puppy supplies page I have a link to my favorite probiotics.
I only feed probiotics as needed. For example, introducing a new food, any type of wormer, medication or new supplement and anytime they are traveling. If your puppy gets diarrhea, add probiotics to help get their gut back in line. I always have probiotics on hand. I will be sending some home with you to help your puppy adjust but I also recommend purchasing some to keep on hand yourself. It is a good idea to add probiotics to your puppy's food for the first month or so as they are transitioning to a new home.
Below is a link to the diet page on my website. I've got a lot more info including more reasons why you should feed raw. As always, please let me know if you guys have any questions!
Also, don't let feeding raw overwhelm you. If you're not up for feeding 100% raw, there are ways to add it so that puppy can still get some of the benefits of raw. Again, Please let me know if you have questions.
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I want to share with you all your puppies vaccine schedule.
As everybody knows I do a nomograph test on the mama dog to determine when the puppies will lose the natural antibody they receive from Mom's colostrum. If you vaccinate before they have lost this natural immunity, the natural immunity will cancel out the vaccine.
Please treat you
I want to share with you all your puppies vaccine schedule.
As everybody knows I do a nomograph test on the mama dog to determine when the puppies will lose the natural antibody they receive from Mom's colostrum. If you vaccinate before they have lost this natural immunity, the natural immunity will cancel out the vaccine.
Please treat your puppy as though completely unprotected until proven protected by titer test.
This means avoiding heavy dog traffic areas such as pet stores, parks with lots of dogs and doggy meetups.
The recommendation for the Little Charms Litter is a DAP vaccine at 9 weeks (1/13/2025 because this vaccine is so close to when the puppies would be going home, I would prefer it get delayed a few days or skipped all together.) 13 weeks (2/10/2026) a DAP or CPV at 17 weeks (3/10/2026) and 20 weeks (3/31/2026) followed by a titer test at 22 weeks (4/14/2026). After this, you will follow the recommendations of the puppies latest titer test.
I recommend delaying the rabies vaccine as long as possible, but I would not give it any sooner than 24 weeks.
I highly recommend giving your pup a detox with Toxic Cleanse with each vaccine. I get this through heaven sent healthy pets (linked below). This is also where I get my heartworm prevention. Full disclaimer I do have an affiliate link with them but I've been using their products long before our partnership.
🐾 The first vet appointment
If you feel more comfortable taking your puppy into the vet right away you can, but I recommend waiting until their first vaccine. When your puppy first arrives in your home, there is a lot of adjusting to do and all this stress will put a toll on your puppy's immune system. Taking your puppy to the vet during this time for just a checkup is putting them at unnecessary risk. Lots of sick dogs leave germs at the vet's office and a puppy going through transition into a new home is more likely to pick up those nasty bugs.
With that said, if there is something you are concerned about with your puppy, do not hesitate getting them to the vet as soon as possible.
I like to make my appointments way ahead of time so that I can get the appointment time I prefer. With young unvaccinated puppies, I do my best to get the first appointment of the day. This means the vet has not been exposed to nearly the amount of doggy germs (on their clothes) as they will be by the end of the day.
I also recommend keeping your puppy in your car until the vet is ready. Make sure your puppy potties before you leave home for your appointment. One of the most dangerous places for a unprotected puppy to be is on the ground outside a vet clinic. Carry your puppy, do not let their feet touch the ground and bring a blanket from home to set on the exam table. This will lessen the chance of your puppy coming into contact with something dangerous. As soon as your appointment is over take your puppy out to the car. I do not let other people at vet's office pet my puppy. I know it sounds rude but you just never know if they are there because their dog has kennel, cough or parvo and you certainly don't want them touching your puppy.
At the bottom of this page is a video explaining exactly how I recommend taking puppies to the vet.
You will also have a copy of the nomograph test in your puppy folder.
- coccidiosis
Please be aware that if you take your puppy into the vet and have a stool sample checked shortly after they move in, there's a very good chance your vet will find coccidiosis in their stool, despite them having a negative stool sample from their vet visit with me.
Coccidia or coccidiosis is everywhere. It is in most mammals and most environments. The stress of moving into a new home can sometimes allow the coccidiosis numbers to increase in a puppy.
Unless your puppy has diarrhea I would not treat them with anything other than probiotics. Their bodies will adjust and bring the coccidia numbers down naturally.
Like I said if they have diarrhea I would follow your vets advice but if their stool is normal I would not be concerned at all.
I am also sending you guys with 10 days worth of probiotics. I recommend using one capsule with breakfast for the first 10 days.
After the initial adjustment (a month or so), use the probiotics as needed such as if your puppy has a loose stool, if you are traveling, if they are under any stress or if you give any type of medication including dewormer and vaccines.
As always, let me know if you guys have any questions!

Go home day is super exciting for new families!
If you're anything like me, you probably won't sleep at all the nights leading up to the big day. You're probably counting down the hours, minutes and even seconds until you get to hold your sweet baby. Remember as all of this is going on that although your puppy is super resilient this is a
Go home day is super exciting for new families!
If you're anything like me, you probably won't sleep at all the nights leading up to the big day. You're probably counting down the hours, minutes and even seconds until you get to hold your sweet baby. Remember as all of this is going on that although your puppy is super resilient this is a big change for them. They're moving into a unfamiliar home full of new sites sounds and smells with people they've never met before. While most puppies take this all in stride and seem to do pretty well, this move can still be pretty stressful for them. So my recommendation is to get your puppy home as smoothly and quickly as possible. Don't make extra stops especially to pet stores or other areas with dog traffic. Just get your puppy home so they can start settling in. I also recommend withholding visitors for a day or so to allow your puppy to become familiar with your home and begin building the bond with you.
Make sure you have all the supplies you need before go home day! This includes food, treats, toys, x-pens and kennel.
- Picking up your puppy
My physical address is 707 North Gorham Street, Fayette, Ohio 43521
When you come to pick up your puppy, please be sure to wear clean clothes that have not been around other dogs. I will also ask you to leave your shoes at the door.
If there is another vehicle in the driveway besides a silver Ford escape. Please hang out in your car until the other family has left.
I have scheduled 45 min for each pickup so please try to keep your visit within that time frame.
I do not have a public restroom but there is a circle k gas station in town.
If you've been thinking of questions you want to ask when you pick your puppy up, it's best to write them down or drop them in your phone. It's hard to remember everything when surrounded by these cute fluff balls! Please know I'm available for questions anytime even if your pup is 14 years old.
-The ride home
These puppies have done awesome on their car rides! Remember your car may feel, smell and look very different than mine, so it is a new experience. I recommend bringing paper towels, a trash bag and some cleaner just in case your puppy has an accident.
I also recommend grabbing an extra layer of clothes for yourself. The cooler you keep your car the more comfortable your puppy will be and the better they will settle in for the ride.
If you have a long ride and will need to stop for potty breaks try to space them out as far as you can. When you do stop go off the beaten path. Choose a location other people would not commonly take their dogs. Check the area before getting your puppy out to ensure there's no other dog feces. Make the potty break as quick as possible and be sure to offer water!
I would not allow anyone to visit with your pup, especially other dogs as you do not know where they came from or what germs they may be carrying. Even better would be to set up a potty area in your car using a turf potty tray so that your puppy never has to leave the safety of your vehicle. Remember your puppy is not fully vaccinated and it is your job to keep them protected.
You will have a collapsible water bowl, poo bags, slip lead, scent blanket and their teddy bear in your puppy pack. I recommend keeping the scent blanket and teddy bear close to them for the ride home and the first few days as they adjust.
-As soon as you get home
The very first thing you should do when you get home is take your puppy to the potty area you want them to use. Do not take them inside until after they have gone potty.
I recommend keeping your puppy primarily in one room. This will speed up housebreaking and allow you to use the other rooms as experiences or objects of the day.
Remember your puppy is just a baby and moving to a new home is a lot to take in! As much as you want to show off your new puppy, I recommend you withhold visitors for at least a couple of days. Spend those days bonding with your puppy and getting to know them.
- introducing your puppy to their doggy sibling
Ideally this would happen in the backyard or large living room. Make sure to set up some chairs or table where the puppy can hide under to get away from the other dog. Also make sure that your other dog can get away from the puppy. You want them to both have an escape option should they need a break.
I recommend allowing the puppy to get used to the yard or room before bringing in the other dog. Once your puppy has explored the area and is confident in it bring in their doggy sibling. If their doggy sibling will be too rambunctious or excited, try walking them or having a good game of fetch to wear off some of the energy before introducing them to your puppy. If they are super rambunctious, you may want to put them on a leash to prevent them from overwhelming your new puppy.
Do not leaving your new puppy with their new doggy sibling unsupervised. Always allow them the option to get away from each other.
- the first night
I recommend your puppy sleep in a kennel next to your bed for the first week or so. As your puppy adjusts, you can move the kennel into where you want your puppy to sleep as an adult. Remember they're just little babies and are used to sleeping with their siblings so keep them fairly close at first.
If your puppy is more comfortable you may throw a sheet over the kennel to make it den like. Golden's especially puppies get hot easy. So if your puppy is having a hard time settling in, try blowing a fan onto the kennel.
I try to keep puppies awake for an hour and a half to 2 hours before bedtime. Playing with them so they are tired both mentally and physically will help them sleep through the night.
Take water away 30 minutes before bedtime (your puppy should have access to water all day. The only time I withhold water is bedtime). Make sure your puppy goes potty right before bed. I like to let them kind of settle in or start to fall asleep before putting them in the kennel. Once they are in the kennel, stay with in sight. If it helps them, you can stick your fingers through the kennel until they fall asleep. They may fuss for a little bit. This is completely normal and okay as long as they aren't actually panicking.
If they wake up in the middle of the night, keep things as dark and quiet as possible. Don't talk to them or get excited. Simply take them out to their potty area, allow them to go potty and bring them back in. Most likely they will fuss a little bit more when you put them back in the kennel. If you allow them to run around and get excited, they may form a habit of midnight party time.